Friday, May 7, 2010

That's SO Germany! issue one: Schinken

That's so Germany! Is my attempt to make up for being a lazy and neglectful blogger all these months. It takes every week (or so... you know me.) as subject a new thing that's SO uniquely or interestingly German.

Schinken

I was taught in German class all those years ago that "Schinken" was the German word for ham. At the time, I visualized a big baked ham like shown in a cartoons as the object of some poor dog's lust, complete with crisscross pattern and a large anatomically incorrect bone sticking out. Nothing could be further from the truth. That would be a kind of schinken, for sure, but the German word encompasses far more preparations of pig than the measly American "ham".

Though I didn't realize it at the time, one of the first things I ate in Germany was Schinken. My flight got in to Frankfurt at about 7:00 in the morning local time —the middle of the night, according to my circadian rhythm. The first thing my host family did after getting home was to sit down to breakfast, and so I sat myself down for a midnight snack. There are many unusual things about German meals, which I will write about in a further installment, so I just did what everybody else was doing: took a roll, cut it in half, spread butter on it, and put a piece of strange, paper-thin meat on each side. It was really good! Salt, and meat flavor, and fat... all the good things about meat without the mass to chew.

Schinken, as I found out later, is not cooked, simply smoked or salted and then cut really thin. This explains the lack of this delicacy in America: My first reaction to the idea of uncooked meat was disgust. For some reason, we view uncooked meat with extreme suspicion. Everything must be, for German standards, cooked to a cinder before it is declared safe to eat. And keeping meat, raw or cooked, just sitting in the fridge like all my German families? Unthinkable. How have they not all died of salmonella?

But, like most German meat products, the stuff is too good to be grossed out by. Schinken is one of those things I'm going to miss back in the US, for sure.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

The Deutschlandreise Files: Koblenz, Bad Ems, Heidelberg.

It's been a long, long time since I last wrote one of these! A number of factors have conspired to keep me off the blog, including fun with other exchangers, orchestra rehearsal, the impending Rotary presentation, and my school's 150th birthday festival. This means that my school here was founded at about the same time Eureka was. There's a reason they call it the "old world", isn't there?

Deusches Eck Okay, where was I... right. barreling down the highway back into Germany, then south past where I live and down to the where the Mosel river meets the Rhine. Here in Koblenz, exactly at the point of confluence, there is a massive and puzzling monument. Called the "Deutsches Eck", the "German Corner", it is a paved triangle between the Mosel and Rhine rivers with a giant monument to Wilhelm dem Großen, consisting of a massive statue of him astride a horse, accompanied by winged Victory. It's kind of strange, and really big. Being Exchange students, the first thing we do is take pictures of them. The second thing we do is take pictures of them with our flags. And the third thing we do is climb on them, and have people take pictures of us. Surprisingly, no one told us to get off one of Germany's national treasures. Mexican?That relief there, though, the one with the eagle and snakes, puzzles me. It would seem more at home in an Aztec ruin. And the writing above: what kind of script is that? It looks nothing like I expected old German to.

Our time to puzzle and photograph is cut short, however, by a sudden shower. We jump back on the bus, and after a couple of hours of driving, some hefty detours to avoid low bridges, and a frighteningly steep ride up and down a mountain, we reach the youth hostel in Bad Ems. Well, not actually in Bad Ems, more like in the middle of nowhere. Well, I guess we won't get to experience the famous Bad Emsian nightlife! What a tragedy! But a bus of 60 exchange students is essentially a rolling party, and we had quite an evening in the hostel's basement bar.

Moss: utterly fascinating.The next morning is an early one: we lever ourselves out of bed, eat a quick breakfast, hide some rolls in our pockets for lunch, and hit the road. First stop: the Marksburg, one of many, many castles ahead of us. It's a pretty typical medieval castle, and I quickly get distracted by some moss between the stones. After that, it's off to Heidelberg, where the primary attractions are the lovely old architecture and Kyleen's girlfriend, who studies there. After another frightening bus ride up the hill to the ruined castle (Hairpins in a double-decker can be extremely hair-raising), we get out and walk down into the old city. Wow...Heidelberg was one of the nicest cities I saw on the trip; old, historical architecture, but a population where one in five are students. I think these posters summarize the attraction: where else could you find a poster for dubstep (an electonica subgenre) right next to one for Bach?

After a bit more creative driving (apparently our bus driver "doesn't trust" his satnav...) we found our way to the hostel; a spiffy place, clearly only recently built. The hostels on the trip ranged from serviceable to excellent, and Heidelberg was one of the high points. Of course, having arrived at the hostel, the first thing on our minds was "when are we going out again?" After dinner, the rotex crew made the announcement: we would be getting on a bus back into Heidelberg and spending the evening in a bar that they knew from the last group.

As it turned out they hadn't reserved the place, but it didn't matter: when 60 loud exchange students crowd into a restaurant, it clears pretty quickly on its own. The place was advertising "Bier in Sitefel", that is, a liter-sized, boot-shaped glass. This is, of course, an irresistible photo opportunity for such as us. There was quickly not a boot left on the shelf. Nor beer left in the boots.

One of the few groups who did not flee at our entrance was a pair of buzz-cut, muscled men. It turned out they were Americans, and in Heidelberg for a couple days returning from "a trip in the middle east." They didn't say as much, but I'm pretty certain they were soldiers. in any case, we were happy to have our group or English-speakers increased by two, and a good time was had by all.

All except the poor people who shared the last bus with us on the way home. Having your normally-quiet night commute suddenly filled by tons of loud, foreigners cannot be a pleasant experience. I must say, though, the rotex did an excellent job of getting us home. I don't think any of us had any idea what buses we were taking, or when, but we didn't need to; their people-herding skills were excellent.

This trip home was also the start of what would be come an important diversion in days to come: the invention and singing of songs. It all started with this off-color but extremely topical ditty that Kyleen and I invented on the way from the bus station to the hostel:

Splash splash splash,

I really need to pee.

Splash splash splash,

My bladder's getting full.

It was extremely catchy, I theorize, because it encapsulated perfectly the Zeitgeist of that particular time and place. But even the most wonderful moments must end, and we reached the hostel, snuck as quietly as we could through the halls, and collapsed into our beds, to sleep away the few hours until morning.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

The Deutschlandreise Files: Brussels

Alright: First day. I wake up early, barely able to contain my excitement. Everything packed already, I fiddle restlessly with the stuff I am leaving behind. I won't be in this room for much longer anyway; one day after we get back is the third and final host family trade. Final. Even as the days get longer, everything about this year is getting shorter. But I've got two weeks ahead of me; two weeks with my best friends traveling thousands of kilometers around Germany!Faithful Steed

Bonn: Around the corner from the bahnhof stands a massive green and white bus, ringed by exchange students. I dodge in, slide my suitcase to the packers, and dash up the tiny staircase. Bingo! I am the first on the bus, and the best seats are ripe for the picking. I take the seat right up front, upstairs, looking right out over the road.

First stop: The Haus Der Geschicte, a museum of German history going from the end of WWII up to today. It's a fascinating museum, but I and most of the others from here have seen it already. We spend the time catching up with each other and making excited plans.

After the quick tour, it's back in the bus for the long drive from Bonn to Brussels. The front seat doesn't prove as useful as I thought it would be; the window is very dirty, and my camera seems to think that's what I want to take pictures of. But it's fun to watch the landscape drift by. From really close to the glass, you can almost make yourself believe you are flying down the Autobahn towards Belgium.

It's easy to miss a border in Europe these days: at first we just thought the town names had gotten really strange. Belgium, though, looks subtly different: somehow, the villages, the fields, the trees are slightly more... Belgian. Brussels, however, is extremely cosmopolitan, almost aggressively so. I lost count of the number of EU flags. Every hotel has an extensive collection of flags over the door.

RathausThe old city is a different story altogether. Here, on the Grand Square, the city's medieval and intricately carved town hall rears its distinctive spire. There are some beautiful buildings around it; old guild houses with gilded tools of the trade, palaces, all the architectural treasure that old rich cities seem to collect.

Our tour guide for the day is an old guy who is a little put out by our tendency to favor talking with each other over listening to him. He talks about all 17 times that Brussels has changed hands in the past couple centuries, about the tension between the Dutch-speaking Belgians in the north, and the French-speaking Vallons in the south, and how Brussels is (because of being invaded, natch) a little francophone island in the Dutch-speaking north. He talked at length about Belgian beer, and Belgian kings, and Belgian this and that... I barely knew there was anything other than Belgian waffles!

TintinBut you know who else is from Belgium? Tintin! Apparently Hergé was a pen name for Georges Rémi, a Belgian! Brussels is apparently a very important city in European comics history: I saw many murals like this one, depicting other comic characters throughout the city. I think of "comics" as having come from superheroes and a largely American thing; it's weird to think that Europe was developing its own style at the same time!

The hostel is exactly as I expected it would be: bunk beds and a couple of sinks in the room, everything else down the hall. We eat, then quickly freshen up and head downstairs; tonight is our only opportunity to try Belgian beer!

Of course, with 60 people in tow you can't just walk into a bar and order a couple. We do quite a bit of walking before we find a place that can and will take us all. But it's a nice place. Belgian beer is different, and good; we talk and trade each other sips until the Rotex round us up at twelve.

Next morning: The word is up and out: we have a long way to go. I perform the miracle of getting everything back in my suitcase in record time, and am one of the first on the bus. AtomiumUnfortunately we have to wait for the last; this results in a chill half an hour of miscellaneous exchange student conversation.

Eventually the bus lurches into motion, and we are on our way to the Atomuim, a strange construction built for the 1958 worlds fair. It's recently been restored, so it's shiny, but still covered in zeerust. The old man from yesterday had showed up while we were taking pictures, and he wheezed facts over the bus intercom as we drove around and continued to talk to each other. I felt kinda sorry for him; he did a good tour, but we were far more interested in each other. But we dropped him in the city, and then we hit the road, saying goodbye to Belgium and heading southward to the Mosel... But that's a story for another day.

Wow... I'm amazed how much came out there! I didn't even know I remembered all that! Anyway, there's a lot more to come; I'm not going to do things exactly one day at a time; I'll just cut it how I feel it works best. But if this post is any guide, I'll be writing these until I leave!

Here is my Flickr album, and here is another take on the first day by the inimitable Kaya.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

The Deutschlandreise Files:

It's been a crazy couple of weeks; first two weeks in a bus with 60 other exchange students, then a host family change the day after I get back! But the trip was amazing; I can't think of a better way to tour Germany. It was exhausting, for sure: party every night, and then breakfast at 7:30 isn't a comfortable schedule. But by the last day, we were all sick and tired and the best friends in the world.

I knew you would all want to see some of the trip, so over the 14 days I took 6.6 gigabytes of pictures. Over the next two weeks, I will try to write a series of posts, each on one of the cities we visited, and accompany it with a photo album on Flickr. The album for Brussels is already up; I should have the post written tomorrow. Watch this space.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Deutschlandreise!

Just so you all know, in just TWO days I will be on the road in a bus jam-packed with exchange students for our two-week-long trip all over Germany! A rough sampling of the destinations:

  • Bonn
  • Brussels
  • The Marksburg
  • Heidelberg
  • Strausbourg
  • The European Parliament
  • Stuttgart
  • Dachau
  • Munich
  • Neuschwanstein
  • Prague
  • Dresden
  • Berlin
  • The Reichstag/Bundestag building
  • Potsdam
  • The VW factory
  • Hamburg

As you can see, it's a whirlwind trip. In a couple cities, we will barely have enough time to run through taking pictures. But it will be nonetheless fun; two uninterrupted weeks with other exchange students can't be anything but fun!

As to wether you will hear anything from me during the trip... I don't know. I will be taking all the necessary gear with me, (I'm not sure if my 8 gigabytes of camera memory will suffice for this trip!) but whether or not I have internet access on a given day is luck of the draw. Auf jeden fall, at the end of the trip I will post one heck of a photo album!

Monday, March 15, 2010

High-quality advertising

German advertising is subtly different from US advertising. Well, sometimes it's not so subtle: Kaya wrote a great post about some of the ads that are run here that would probably never see airtime in north America. But there is a more subtle bias to German advertising I have noticed: german ads often stress the quality of their products much more. It is a rare comestible that does not advertise itself as "spitzenqualität" (top quality) and many even bear the grade they received in a consumer-reports-style product test.


See? both at once: "Spitzenqualitat" at the top, and a prize sticker at the bottom for being the best... cooked ham. they've got me there, that's for sure!


But these appeals seem to work: Bittburger Pils, the most popular beer in Germany, runs an ad campaign based almost exclusively on emphasizing the purity of its ingredients. Anything I don't need to tell you that German auto companies do the same.


The whole attitude reminds me of those old ads in National Geographic. You know, the ads for stuff like Rolex and Cadillac that were more text than picture. This is an extreme example, but this style of "persuasive" advertising, that attempts to sell something by giving a pitch, instead of just associating it with a good feeling, like most advertisements these days, is basically gone in the US, but lives on in Germany.


Bonus best line from the Rolex ad: "On its clasp, you'll recognize the Rolex crown. So will other people."

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Snow! (again)

IT SNOWED! in MARCH! This isn't supposed to be happening. Going into this exchange, I wanted to go somewhere where I could experience a real winter. I seem to have gotten my wish!

The weekend started out with snow. I went skiing indoors for the second time! It was tremendous fun. Hubertus, my host father, is a ski instructor, and a really good one. I went in two days (evenings really, from 5 until 11) from not knowing the first thing about skiing to a decent skier! Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures from that.

Friday night, though, came real, outdoor snow. A good inch of lovely, powdery snow!

Tracks

And lovely clear skies to boot!

More pictures from the last two days on Flickr here.